2019年10月27日 星期日

[Austria] 上奧地利,Obertraun,Höllwirt



抵達 Obertraun,Check-in 之後,和房東聊聊一些注意事項,也問問天氣的狀況,由於天氣有點陰雨,再加上已經度過了差不多 24 小時 (飛機 + 火車) 的交通時間,決定就在 Obertraun 逛逛超市,看看是否需要補給,接著就來到房東介紹的 Höllwirt 吃晚餐。
When we checked-in, the host told us some reminding like the weather for tomorrow, when the supermarket is opened, and also the bus may be delayed because of the re-construction of the tunnels. Since the weather is not good, cloudy and drizzling, we just went to look around the Obertraun and eat dinner at Höllwirt.




這是一間民宿 + 餐廳,不知道若住在這兒晚餐是否會有折扣,哈完整版的菜單是左側棕色封面那本,記得內容都是德文,或許因為觀光客多了,多了右側這個圖文並茂的版本,這樣就更不用擔心會點錯了,呵~
Gasthof Höllwirt is a hostel and restaurant, we just went to the part of the restaurant. The brown one is the complete menu written in German, and the green one is written in English with photos. This really helps the tourists to place an order.



依之前在部落格上看到的分享,奧地利其實並沒有小費文化,但基本上一定要點飲料,可能因為飲料一般來說,毛利都挺高的,有一部分就作為侍者的小費吧!總之,因為這個想法,這次奧捷之旅基本上是餐餐都喝酒呦~
初來乍到,就先點了一杯 500 ml 的 Local Beer,汽泡綿密,挺順口的,不太有苦味,很好喝,單價是 3.9 歐。 紅酒的部分記得是 House wine,一杯 4.4 歐,口味上算是順口。
Based on the info I found, there is no need to pay TIPS in Austria. Usually, you may need to order the drinks before you order the meals. I guess that's because the gross profit of the drinks is high and that can cover their tips. Anyway, that's the reason to convince me to have drinks for each meal in Austria and Czech. We order a 500 ml mug of local beer (€ 3.9) and a glass of house wine (€ 4.4). They both are good.

因為有點寒意,我們兩人點了一道湯,同時為了多吃點青菜,再加上一個沙拉,及兩道主菜,沒注意到綜合燒烤還另附一盤沙拉,上菜後擺滿整桌,好豐盛呀!
Because the weather is kind of cool, we ordered the soup. And I heard it might not be easy to eat vegetables in Europe, so we add a salad. Plus two main meals then it becomes a lot, ha~


Leberknödel 肝丸湯,4.9 歐;依菜單上的說明,應該是牛絞肉加上 (牛或豬?) 肝做成的肉丸子,既然做成了丸子,其實是吃不出牛肉香的,湯本身偏鹹,不過在這樣的天氣 (室外應該十度左右吧),喝碗熱湯是不錯的暖胃菜。
Leberknödel, € 4.9, it's clear beef soup with homemade herb liver dumpling. Since it's a dumpling, it's hard to tell if you can still taste the flavor of beef. Anyway, it a good choice to warm up your stomach to be prepared to eat the main courses.


Gemischter Salat 綜合沙拉,4.8 歐;我覺得就是台灣一般的開胃沙拉,比較特別的是優格醬,青菜都很新鮮,吃得出鮮甜。
Gemischter Salat€ 4.8, the mixed salad with yogurt dressing. The vegetables are fresh.


Bratwurst 德國油煎香腸,9.8 歐;香腸不錯,不過最好吃的是馬鈴薯,感覺應該是用牛肉湯燉煮的馬鈴薯,吸飽了湯汁,吃起來口感很綿,口味上既甜且香,從這兒可看得出廚師的功力,或許真的是太常處理馬鈴薯了,有聽過幾位朋友說到歐洲旅遊 (尤其跟團),吃馬鈴薯吃到都有點反胃,但我反而覺得,這兒的馬鈴薯平均來說,都比台灣的好吃。
Bratwurst€ 9.8, the fried sausage with potatoes and sauerkraut. The best is the potatoes. We guess it's cooked with the beef soup to make it soft and full of the beef juice. It's sweet and smells so good. 


Grillteller 綜合燒烤,18.5 歐;記得有烤牛排,雞胸肉,雖然牛排不是頂級五分熟,但也是不錯吃,大概八分左右,沒有烤老,雞胸肉也不柴,還吃得出淡淡甜味,挺不錯的。
Grillteller, € 18.5, the mixed grill with fried potatoes, vegetable, herb-butter, and salad. As I remember, the grilled steak and chicken breast are good, not overcooked. 

整體來說,民宿主人推薦的這間餐廳很不錯吃,我們總共吃了 46.3 歐元,應該算是這兒的一般價。
In general, the host recommends a good restaurant to have our dinner. It's € 46.3 in total. I guess it's the normal price here.

Gasthof Höllwirt:
Nr. 29 
A. 4831 Obertraun 
https://m.hoellwirt.at/en/

2019年10月26日 星期六

[Austria] 上奧地利,Hallstatt 哈爾斯塔特,交通 & 景點分佈

我的第一次歐洲旅遊,之所以會選擇奧地利,最重要的就是想去最美的湖邊小鎮-哈爾斯塔特 (Hallstatt,亦作哈修塔特) 走走;從台灣前往奧地利,基本上都是從維也納進出,因此,在行程安排上,我就把前兩天都作為交通日,從台灣前往奧地利的班機,就選擇可在第二天一早抵達維也納的航班 (直飛或轉機皆可,最後我選擇了當時最低價的泰航,27000 元,總飛行時數 17 小時,包含在曼谷等轉機的 3 小時),立即銜接十點半的火車前往 Hallstatt,預計可在下午三點左右抵達 Obertraun ( Hallstatt 對岸的小鎮,為節約住宿費用的選擇)。
This postcard explains why I select Austria to be my first stop to travel to Europe. The Hallstatt looks so beautiful.
When I search for the flight, I found the most convenient way is to fly to Vienna and it may take 13 hours for a direct flight or around 20 hours when you transferred somewhere. To balance the time and the cost, I choose to transfer at Bangkok (3 - 4 hours) for the ticket price is NTD 27,000 and the total time is around 17 hours.
The flight will arrive at Vienna around 7 o'clock in the morning, so I book the train 3 hours later to go to Hallstatt directly. I plan to check-in there around 3 P.M. which can let us have enough time to take a rest and look around the small town, Obertraun, which is on the other side of the Hallstätter See or Lake Hallstatt.


出發時間出發地點抵達時間抵達地點Note
Day 12005TPE2250BKKTG635
Day 20120BKK0715VIETG936

1033Flughafen Wien Bahnhof1258Attnang-Puchheim BahnhofRailjet640

1258Platform 31311Platform 5C-EChange the platform

1311Attnang-Puchheim Bahnhof1447Hallstatt BahnhofRegional Train 3418
購票的時候,可以從機場火車站 (Flughafen Wien Bahnhof) 或者從維也納中央車站 (Wien Hauptbahnhof) 發車,差別是出關後是否要先搭公車或火車趕到維也納中央車站,就網路上網友的分享,及我個人經驗,維也納機場的海關真的幾乎不問問題,很快就可以完成入關,領好行李,抵達機場大廳的時間大約八點初頭而已,於是就先前往維也納中央車站逛逛,並買點三明治,麵包作為等下在火車上的午餐,說到這,還真的想報怨一下,泰航餐點的份量實在偏少,我幾乎都在吃飽後四小時就餓,實在是有點...
Above sheet is the schedule plan of above which includes the flight and train number for your information.
When booking the train, you may select Flughafen Wien Bahnhof to leave from the airport or select Wien Hauptbahnhof to leave from the central station of Vienna. Because the custom of Vienna doesn't ask questions based on other Bloggers' sharing and my experience, if you plan to leave from Wien Hauptbahnhof you can have some time to buy sandwiches for your lunch.

大家可以參照下圖以建立地理上相關位置的概念,先搭火車從奧地利東側的維也納往西側的薩爾斯堡 (Salzburg,莫札特的出生地) 前進,在 Attnang-Puchheim 車站轉車南下,往 Hallstatt 的方向前進,抵達 Hallstatt 時要特別注意,如果是住宿在 Hallstatt 小鎮裡,那就在 Hallstatt 車站下車,沿斜坡下行,搭渡輪前往 Hallstatt,一般都是搭到 Hallstatt Lahn,這兒是小鎮的交通樞鈕,但如果像我為了省住宿費而住在 Obertraun (上特勞恩) 的話,就要多坐一站才行,不要像我先是為了省火車票的錢 (標準票價約 50 歐,早鳥票只要 20 歐),直接訂票到 Hallstatt,之後為了省住宿費訂了 Obertraun 的民宿,結果又要再花 2 歐買 Hallstatt 到 Obertraun 的車票,記得先決定住宿再買火車票呀!或者火車票就直接買到 Obertraun 吧,(早鳥) 票價一樣!
Before going details, please find below snapshot which shows the locations of different cities. Vienna is on the east side of Austria, and you may need to take the train to go west (the destination usually is Salzburg where Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart was born). Since we're going to Hallstatt, we'll need to change the train at Attnang-Puchheim to go south.
Before reserve the train ticket, remember to decide where you may stay, at Hallstatt or Obertraun? Obertraun is the next station after Hallstatt. If you just book the ticket to Hallstatt, you may need to pay extra 2 euro to go to Obertraun. If you haven't decided, I suggest you just reserve the ticket to Obertraun because the price is the same.
If you'll stay at Hallstatt, you may take off at Hallstatt station and use the ferry to go to the town, Hallstatt.
If you stay at Obertraun like me, just take the train to the next station and you'll need to take a bus, 543, to go to Hallstatt later.


在 Hallstatt 和 Obertraun 之間,基本上只有一班公車 ─ 543 來往兩地,若住在 Hallstatt,基本上應該是步行參觀 Hallstatt,若要前往附近景點才須要搭車,若像我一樣住在 Obertraun,則建議搭一早 0645 從 Obertraun 車站發車的公車前往 Hallstatt Lahn,這個時間點才有機會在團客抵達之前,安靜地參觀 Hallstatt,即使是這個時間,在 Hallstatt 展望點我都遇到了十幾個人在拍照了 (聽口音,應該是前一晚住在 Hallstatt 的台灣團,印象中沒有看到歐美人),更不用說再晚了,若單純來拍照,建議可搭 0900 從 Hallstatt Lahn 的車回 Obertraun,我們是剛好來得及回到民宿享用主人提供的早餐,也剛好是在我們等車的時候,看到好幾車的團客抵達 Hallstatt,但若你都還沒逛過 Hallstatt,九點離開可能還是太早了點。
若近期 (2019年第四季) 要到 Hallstatt 自助的朋友要注意,Hallstatt 往北的兩個隧道正在施工,所以公車班次的時間大受影響,上述兩班車,可能是每天最有機會準時發車的班次,若你要等待的是其他班次的公車,請有心理準備,可能至少會延遲 20,30 分鐘。由於整個地區景點分佈不算太大,應該都在 3 公里以內吧?或許有時候可以考慮用走的~如果你是輕裝,走路速度又快的話~
There is only one bus between Hallstatt and Obertraun, 543, so you don't need to worry if you might take the wrong bus. 
To visit Hallstatt, my suggestion is to take the earliest bus, 0645, from Obertraun, which means you may arrive Hallstatt at 0700 before all the group tours. You may still meet some visitors who stay at Hallstatt, but most of them are still sleeping. At 9 o'clock, the time we left, the group tours are coming. You can see the most crowded Hallstatt then.
The host of the B&B told me that the tunnels to go north at Hallstatt is under construction, so the buses may be delayed during this time. If you plan to take the bus, you may need more patience.

在 Hallstatt 附近,主要景點除了 Hallstatt 小鎮之外,另有兩個主要景點,一個是在 Hallstatt 南邊郊區的鹽洞,可以去參觀過去的採鹽情景,可惜這次時間不夠,未能參觀;另一景點即為可前往冰河,五指山瞭望台,冰洞,猛瑪洞的登山纜車,在 Obertraun 的東南方,一般都是搭乘公車前往,從 Obertraun 車站走過去大約 30 分鐘,也不算太遠,這次我們走完五指山,冰洞,回到纜車站時近五點,由於公車大約要 1720 才會到,再加上前述的施工,估計應該會延誤,我們就直接走回 Obertraun 民宿,只有一條林間大道,不用擔心迷路。 
There are several places you may go near Hallstatt, the salt mine and the cable car. The cable car will take you to the Giant Ice Cave, Mammut Cave and the Five Fingers. The salt mine is really close to the Hallstatt and you can go there by walk. The cable car (gondola) is at Dachstein, at the southeast of Obertraun, and people usually take the bus 543 to get there. 

最後附上交通安排的相關網站:
For the public transportation, you may refer to below website to book the tickets.
1. 奧地利聯邦鐵路 ÖBB https://www.oebb.at/en/
a. 輸入起站,迄站地點,就可以按下 Book Ticket 查詢更詳細資料
b. 確認是單次票
c. 調整日期後,就可以點擊下方的班次訂購了。

2. Postbus https://www.postbus.at/en/
a. 點擊 Route information 可以查詢公車班次訊息
b. 一樣輸入起迄站,然後點擊 Search connection,就會列出全天的班次