[Taiwan] 蘭嶼(Lán Yǔ，Orchid Island)，三天兩夜行程

有些朋友似乎不太清楚蘭嶼的位置，其位於台東的東南方，墾丁的東方海面上，可從台東的富岡漁港或是墾丁的後壁湖漁港搭船抵達；我這次從台東起程，大約是90分鐘的航程，不過若所搭乘的航班會先到綠島，就要再加30分鐘，總共約兩小時；聽說，如果運氣好，在船上就能看到飛魚，海豚，甚至連鯨魚都有人有幸見過！
Some friends may not know where Lán Yǔ is, so I snapshot above map. People can try to get there through Fugang Fishery Harbor in Taitung County or Hou Bi Hu Fishery Harbor in Kenting National Park, Pingtung County. It takes about 90 minutes to go Lán Yǔ from Taitung. If the cruise goes to Lyudao, it may take 120 minutes. And if lucky, the visitors can see the flying fish, dolphin or even whales on the cruise.

蘭嶼是個悠閒的島嶼，既然來了，就不要把行程排得滿滿滿，記得要留些空白，和同行的家人，朋友，一起在發呆亭坐坐，聊聊天，或者就享受平和的氛圍～
When come to Lán Yǔ, don't try to visit everywhere. Please keep the schedule empty, just stay in the hotel or at the pavilion and chat with family or friends or just think nothing, enjoy the peace.

以下是我的行程：
Below is my schedule on Lán Yǔ:

	出發時間	出發地點	抵達時間	抵達地點	活動內容
第一天	0620	台北火車站	0950	台東火車站	太魯閣號，3小時30分
	1000	台東火車站	1020	台東市區	早午餐
	1230	台東市區	1250	台東富岡漁港	搭船
	1300	台東富岡漁港	1500	蘭嶼開元港	抵達蘭嶼
	1500	蘭嶼開元港	1630	天空的眼睛	環島+Check-in
	1700	天空的眼睛	1730	青青草原	落日
	1900	青青草原	1920	哇哇	晚餐
	2030	哇哇	2100	天空的眼睛	觀星
第二天	0900		1330		浮潛
	1400		1500	聖恩羊肉	午餐
	1500	聖恩羊肉	1530	野銀冷泉	玩水
	1700	野銀冷泉	1730	天空的眼睛	休息，附近用晚餐
	1930		2030		夜間生態觀察
第三天	0600	天空的眼睛	0620	阿力給早餐	早餐
	0640	阿力給早餐	0700	天空的眼睛	休息+整理
	1100	天空的眼睛			Check-out
	1100	天空的眼睛	1120	雯雯芋頭冰	午餐
	1220	雯雯芋頭冰	1240	蘭嶼開元港	搭船
	1330	蘭嶼開元港	1530	台東富岡漁港	抵達台東
	1530	台東富岡漁港	1550	台東火車站
	1750	台東火車站	2120	台北火車站	太魯閣號，3小時30分

加一點小提醒，一般來說，台鐵的訂票系統只能預訂兩週後，同一天的車票，但是，週末例外，在週五時就會開放兩週後的週末提供訂票，如果是週末出發，別忘了週五就該訂票了！因為之前不知道，沒訂到第一天早上0724的普悠瑪號，車程4小時2分，十一點廿六分到台東剛好可以銜接一點的船班。
Add one reminding here, when try to book the train from Taipei to Taitung, you should book it online on the Friday two weeks before, if you're going there on the weekends. Normally, you can only book the train tickets two weeks before, but the weekends are exceptions.

[Taiwan] 花蓮(Hualien)，液香扁食

從蘭嶼回到台東後，和花蓮在地的朋友到花蓮逛了逛，不可免俗地，來到了液香扁食吃雲吞，由於他個人不愛戴記，所以我們只嚐了液香扁食。
This is a very famous restaurant of won ton. At least 70% of the tourists will try won ton in Hualien. The top 2 in Hualien are Yi-Xiang and Taikee. My friend prefers Yi-Xiang, so we try it.

我個人其實沒有那麼喜歡餛飩，因為台北的餛飩都很小顆，若是大餛飩，大部分也都是「吃粗飽」的，相較下比較偏好鮮蝦大餛飩，味道較多變，可惜液香扁食只賣鮮肉大餛飩，咬了一口才發覺，真的很好吃，豬肉非常有嚼勁，愈嚼愈有滋味，好吃，或許因為用的是後腿肉，相對較Q，要好好地品味～
For myself, I prefer shrimp won ton. But here, they only serves pork won ton and only this. There is nothing else you can eat here. The won ton is big, full of the spoon. It's so famous that I try to taste it really carefully. It's really chewy compares to the similar ones I ate in Taipei. It's much better, really delicious. According to the explanation, the chef uses the legs as the ground pork inside the won ton. Maybe this is why.

液香扁食地址：
970 花蓮縣花蓮市信義街42號

[Taiwan] 蘭嶼(Lán Yǔ，Orchid Island)，雯雯芋頭冰

我們在第二天的下午就曾來到雯雯芋頭冰，嚐嚐有名的芋頭冰。
Actually, we went here, Wen Wen, on the 2nd day afternoon to try their dessert, taro ice. 

抵達時快六點，溫和的陽光灑在海面，讓人覺得暖洋洋，好舒服～ 
When come here just before sunset, the light and the sea looks so beautiful.

再搭配甜甜的芋頭冰，從內到外都美極了！
After ordered the taro ice, go upstairs to enjoy the ice and the landscape, it's so wonderful.

除了點心，這兒也供應正餐，我們第三天的午餐便是在兒解決，當然還是要吃飛魚餐囉！這兒的料理方式和哇哇有點不同，飛翅的部分也是酥脆地可以入口，但魚體的骨頭或是刺就沒有那麼地脆，別不小心吞下肚，會傷到自己，也因此，魚肉的甜味仍被保留住，可以吃到鮮甜的味道，我更喜歡這樣的火候。
Not only the dessert, it also serves lunch and dinner. We tried the flying fish for lunch on the 3rd day. The wings are fried very crispy for eating, but the backbone isn't. Don't swallow like eating at Wa Wa. Because of that, I can still taste the sweat of the meat and I prefer this way. 

雯雯芋頭冰地址：
952 台東縣蘭嶼鄉紅頭村20號

[Taiwan] 蘭嶼(Lán Yǔ，Orchid Island)，阿力給早餐

由於同行友人念念不忘這家阿力給早餐，在第三天早晨，我們六點鐘就出門前往位在紅頭村的阿力給早餐，大約六點廿分到，剛好把最後幾個飛魚飯糰買走。
We waked up really early, around 6 o'clock, on the 3rd day morning and ride for 20 minutes to have the breakfast. Even though, it was so close that we might miss it, the onigiri with flying fish. It was sold out after we bought the last ones.

後來才知道，除了飛魚飯糰，其實它的地瓜三明治也很有名，我發現比我們早來的客人，大概一半吃飯糰，一半吃三明治，只不過，飛魚飯糰是限量的，相對比較稀有。
In fact, it's not only famous with the onigiri with flying fish, the sandwich with sweat potatoes is also good. The sandwich is not limited, the chef can cook it immediately, but not the onigiri.

飛魚飯糰真的很好吃，飯粒是粒粒分明，飛魚似乎是做成飛魚乾，然後切碎混入飯糰中，口感很棒，也很好吃，算是很輕鬆的一份早餐，正好適合我這種吃不了太多早餐的人；後來才發現，其實根本不用這麼早來，飯糰是可以預定的，只要前一天打電話來訂，老闆就會幫忙保留，像我們到的時候，其實還有差不多三十個飯糰，只是其中有廿幾個都被訂走了... 
The onigiri is delicious. The flying fish and the rice are mixed very well and kind of light which I prefer for breakfast. There is a tip to have the onigiri, make a call to have the reservation. In fact, when we arrived, there are 30 onigiri left, but most of them are reserved for someone. If this is a must for you, remember to make the reservation.

阿力給早餐地址：
952 台東縣蘭嶼鄉紅頭村50之1號

[Taiwan] 蘭嶼(Lán Yǔ，Orchid Island)，夜間生態觀察(Night Life Tour)

我發覺現在台灣有許多地方都有夜間導覽的行程，尤其大概每個離島都有，我想這是一件好事，認識地愈多，就會愈想保護她。

There may be a night life tour on each island in Taiwan now. I think this is a good thing. For all of us to know the wild life on the island.

紫地蟹，在馬路上騎車時，很容易就能遇到，相對容易找到，但也因此要小心，以免不小心壓到了。

This is Gecarcoidea lalandii. It's easy to be found on the road. Ride the scooter slowly and careful, especially in the night, don't crush it.

椰子蟹，綽號十八萬，屬於保育類動物，如果吃了它，罰款十八萬，故而名之。

Next one is Birgus latro, it has a nickname called 十八萬. If someone eat it, he will be fined for NTD $180,000. 十八萬 means the number of that money, 180,000.

蘭嶼角鴞，蘭嶼也稱其為Tutuu，是一種小型的貓頭鷹，為台灣蘭嶼的特有種，非常珍貴。

Lanyu scops-owl, also called Tutuu, is a small rufous-brown owl. 

沒想到剛看到角鴞，天空就下起了傾盆大雨，還不時地有閃電，打雷，大家只好乖乖待著躲雨，直到三十分鐘後雨才變小，導遊只好中止了這次的夜觀，真的有點可惜，感覺好像還有許多生物可以看。

When we found it, it starts to rain cats and dogs. After 30-minute waiting, we can only stop the tour and went back the minshuku for a shower. It's so pity that we didn't find more animals.

[Taiwan] 蘭嶼(Lán Yǔ，Orchid Island)，聖恩羊肉風味小吃

早上的浮潛加跳港行程其實時間還滿長的，因此我們到了兩點才有機會吃午餐，此時蘭嶼大多的店家都已經休息了，找來找去，選擇聖恩來吃羊肉餐。 
Because we went to snorkeling in the morning, and because the restaurants in Lán Yǔ closed so early, we ate the lunch here around 2:00 PM. A restaurant majorly serves the lamb.

一般的羊肉炒麵與羊肉炒飯。 
The general fried noodles and fried rice with lamb.

這兩盤菜相對比較特別，右邊是少見的炒過貓，似乎不少人不喜歡它的味道，因此並不是很多餐廳都有，還是以山產店較常見；左邊我則是第一次品嚐─炒芋頭根，吃起來很像茄子，很軟，本身沒什麼味道，似乎帶點微微的甜味，只是不確定是不是醬汁帶來的，整體的調味挺好吃的，不錯的料理。 
The special things we tried here are the vegetables. The right-hand side one is vegetable fern which is not easy to see, but still can be found. It's not common because some people (or maybe I should say many people) don't like the taste. We are fine with it.
The one on the left-hand side is taro root, this is my first time to try it. It tastes like eggplant, soft and almost doesn't have any own flavor just have a little sweat which I'm not sure it's from itself or from the sauce. Anyway, we like it.

聖恩羊肉風味小吃地址：
952 台東縣蘭嶼鄉東清村野銀89-1號

[Taiwan] 蘭嶼(Lán Yǔ，Orchid Island)，浮潛(Snorkeling)

第二天，我們安排了一整天的玩水行程，早上很快地吃完早餐，前往集合地點著裝準備下海浮潛；不確定是不是每個浮潛行程都會附送照片，記得跟教練確認一下喔～有照片真的很有紀念意義呀！
On the next day, we went for snorkeling. Thanks for the coach, so we can have such beautiful photos and experience.

  

雖然這是我第一次聽到這樣的說法，防曬乳液會殺死海中的珊瑚，但至少在蘭嶼，這已經是常識了，希望以後只要玩水，無論去哪兒，都不要擦防曬，保護環境更重要！
I don't know if everywhere in Taiwan starts to publicize that the sunscreen may kill the coral. If you're going to do some activities in the water, for example snorkeling, don't put it on. 

  

朋友知道，來到蘭嶼可以玩「跳港」，浮潛前就特地問了教練，於是浮潛結束之後，就是跳港行程啦！雖然從五米高的陸地往下跳挺嚇人的，但真的好玩，建議大家都要試試呀！
One of my friends knows there is a special activity you can do here, so we ask the coach, could we jump to the water at the harbor? Jump from about 5 meters high is scary, but have a lot of fun. Try it!

[Taiwan] 蘭嶼(Lán Yǔ，Orchid Island)，哇哇複合式餐飲

第一個晚上，由來過蘭嶼好幾次的朋友帶著我們來哇哇複合式餐飲用餐。
The first night, we went to the Wa Wa for dinner.

看到菜單的第一眼，果然如其他部落客所說，這兒的物價挺高的，這個簡餐價跟台北沒有差多少。
To be honest, I thought I was eating in a restaurant at Taipei according to the price. A set is around NTD $250.

有位朋友點了飛魚堡，可能是不太餓的關係，雖然的確有些飛魚的碎肉，不過裡面的配醬味道太重，幾乎嚐不出其他的味道，算是有點失敗的調味。
My friend ordered the hamburger with flying fish. You may taste the minced meat but the sauce is too strong which covers the flavor of flying fish.

既然來到蘭嶼，當然要嚐嚐飛魚，我直接就點了飛魚套餐，飛魚被炸得非常酥脆，全部的骨頭，魚頭，主心骨，飛翅，全部可以咬碎吃下肚，真的是第一次吃到這樣有趣的魚料理，我朋友很愛，我就還好，因為這樣的魚肉就實在太老，吃不出鮮甜味了，這是無法兼顧的可惜之處。
I ordered the set of flying fish. The flying fish is deep fried which makes it so crispy. Even the backbone is crispy enough to chew and swallow it. My friend likes it because you can eat the whole fish. I don't like it, because I cannot taste the sweat of the meat. It's deep fried without any flavor, only the peppers.

哇哇複合式餐飲地址：
952 台東縣蘭嶼鄉紅頭村紅頭7-2號

[Taiwan] 蘭嶼(Lán Yǔ，Orchid Island)，天空的眼睛(民宿，觀星)

連在台灣本島都很難找到一棟綠建築，因此當初在網路上發現蘭嶼有一棟綠建築時，我幾乎是立馬就決定要去住了，根本沒有再看其他的選擇；民宿主人希望遊客既然來到了蘭嶼，就該多認識蘭嶼的環境與人文，所以房間四周的落地窗基本上是隨時開放的，不要關在房間裡吹冷氣(實際上，也沒有冷氣可以吹，哈哈～)，要多出來與人交流，和來遊玩的旅客交流，和主人打屁，和主人的客人聊天，都可以瞭解更多的蘭嶼。
The Eyes of the Sky, the only Green Building on the island. The host is very strongly recommend the visitors to enjoy the nature, so there is no air condition in the room but you still have a fan. You can tell from the photo, the house keep people to touch with the environment, the big window is always opened expect it rains. Don't close yourself in the room, go out to talk with other visitors, the host or even the guests, you may learn a lot about Lán Yǔ.

若從開元港往北繞，很容易就可以在進入東清部落前的斜坡上看到位於左側的民宿，就在一片空曠的原野上，海洋與部落之間，雖然進入的小徑有點難找，不過主人已經放置了標示可以協助旅人。
When we rode the scooter north at the harbor, it's easy to see the building on the way down to Jiranmilek. It stands there between the sea and the road. It's a little hard to find the trail to there. Don't worry, the host prepare a sign and you'll see.

蘭嶼隨處可見的發呆亭，只是這一個是私人的，記得上去時要脫鞋，好好享受在亭上的平靜時光。 
The traditional pavilion, just sit there don't think anything.

建議在蘭嶼的白天可以安排一些水上活動，泡泡水，發散一下暑氣，晚上則可回到民宿與大家聊聊，在天空的眼睛外側，有許多休息的迴廊，在迴廊上吹吹清爽的海風，與好友，與第一次見面的旅人，天南地北地聊，真的是，好享受啊～
I may recommend visitors to have some activities during the day time, and back to the minshuku after dinner. You will have time to chat with other friends and sit out the building to enjoy the cool wind from the ocean. That's really joyful.

補充一點，就在天空的眼睛旁，有一處秘境，雖然，已不再是秘密了，哈～從照片可知，有許多人排隊前來，不過，這兒仍是一個，有遮蔭處的玩水地點，相當不錯。
And there is a secret place just next to it. From the photo above, it's not a secret anymore. Many people come, ha~

在天空的眼睛的晚上，除了聊天喝酒，別忘了抬頭看看美麗的天空，由於民宿較偏僻，相對光害較少，而且蘭嶼的天空本身又乾淨，只要時節對了，很容易就能看到滿天星斗，當晚我們也看到了許多的流星，只是沒有人成功地許到願就是了，噗～也別太早睡，別錯過美麗的銀河，上面照片拍攝的時間都在半夜十二點前後，不知是單純被雲擋住？還是天空不夠黑？或有其他原因，十點，十一點的照片都沒拍到這樣清楚的銀河。
Another good thing to stay onside during the night time is for the beautiful starts. The minshuku is far enough from the light in the major city, it's dark enough. Because you're in Lán Yǔ, the sky is clear enough. It's really easy to see thousands of stars and you can try to find a meteor. If the season and time is right, the beautiful galaxy will be just in front of you. The time I took above photos is on June 4th (no moon in the night) and around midnight.

天空的眼睛地址：
952 台東縣蘭嶼鄉東清村149號

[Taiwan] 蘭嶼(Lán Yǔ，Orchid Island)，青青草原(落日)

一早，趕著早晨六點半的太魯閣號前往台東，轉往富岡漁港搭船前往蘭嶼，由於已經進入旅遊旺季，船票都必須提早預訂，而且還挺貴的，來回要新台幣2300元，到手後要好好保管，若遺失，再加買單程票可是很痛的～
In the very early morning, I took the Taroko Express to Taitung station and transfer to Fugang Fishery Harbor. The tickets should be booked about one month before since it's already the hot season. It's a little bit expensive than I thought, NTD $2,300 for a round-trip ticket.

抵達蘭嶼之後，發覺好熱，好曬，完全沒有建築物可以遮陰；在港口很快地租了機車，馬上飛拚去民宿check-in。
When arrived, it's so hot and there is no indoor places at the Kaiyun Harbor. Just rent a scooter and then go to the Minshuku to drop the packages.

稍作休息，今天最重要的行程是到青青草原看落日，在入口處遇到一個非常可愛，好動的小女孩，等不到她離開，可讓我拍「青青草原」地標，就一起入鏡了，呵～
Then went to the “青青草原” for the sunset. It's located at the southwest corner of the Orchid Island.

小蘭嶼，達悟族的聖地，據說只有在某些神聖時刻，且只有男人才可以上島。
Ji-teiwan, a saint place of the Tao. My friend told me that only for some holy moments or time period that the men may go on the island. 

  

很空曠，很舒服的青青草原，海風一陣一陣地吹，一波一波的草波浪，舒服極了，也讓人心胸舒暢！
It's a wild place with the cool wind from the sea, it's so comfortable and peaceful.

攝影師們的剪影。
The shadows of the photographers.

  

大家都緊抓著最後的幾分鐘，練習拍夕陽的感覺，想找到最佳的快門，光圈，甚至ISO值的組合。
Everyone tried to use the last few minutes to practice how to take the photos of the sunset.

  

個人的成果。
Above are my photos.

青青草原地址：
952 台東縣蘭嶼鄉 (西南角)