[Japan] 京都，伏見區，伏見稻荷大社 (Fushimi Inari-taisha)

對我來說，伏見稻荷大社算是一個很特別的景點，有許多朋友已經都去過，而且都在千本鳥居拍了許多美美的照片，上傳到FB，今天，終於有機會可以來一探究竟了！
For me, Fushimi Inari-taisha is the most famous place shrine in Kyoto. There are so many friends came here and upload the photo taken at the Senbon Torii here.

或許因此，伏見稻荷大社在今年(2016年)某個票選中，連續三年成為了外國遊客眼中，日本最受歡迎的景點。
I guess that's why the flag says the most popular spot in Japan, voted by the foreigners in 2016.

伏見稻荷大社的手水舍，參拜人會先在這兒洗漱一番，上面有張清楚的圖示，先洗左手，再洗右手，再舀一口水倒在左手掌上，用手掌上的水漱口(或者喝下去也行)，然後將勺子與手洗淨，算是洗滌心靈，做好參拜準備。
Before get in, people should clean here. Don't worry, there is a sign teach you how to clean yourself. First is the left hand, then right hand. And then put some water on your left hand, drink the water from your left hand to clean yourself. The last step is clean the spoon and both hands.

伏見稻荷大社的地圖，可看到千本鳥居就在不遠處。
The map of Fushimi Inari-taisha.

漂亮的樓門。
This is the Two-storied Gate.

外拜殿，被圍起來了，不知是不是有開放的日子。
The Worship Hall.

本殿。 
The Main Shrine.

隨處可見稻荷神的使者─狐狸。
The Foxes, they are the messengers. 

大家在本殿排隊參拜，也在此留影。
At the Main Shrine, people pray. And of course, the tourists also take photos while praying.

雖然位於大社的範圍，東丸神社是一間獨立的神社，基本上類似台灣的文昌君，學子來此祈求考到好學校，好系所。
The Higashimaru Shrine which is an independent small shrine just next to Fushimi Inari-taisha. Or you may say it's included in the area of Fushimi Inari-taisha. Here is where the students may come and pray for being matriculated by a high school or college.

接著就是鳥居的世界了，準備前往千本鳥居。 
Next, it's time for the Senbon Torii.

  

人非常多，基本上是排著隊，慢慢地前進，而且大家都要拍照，或許還會停在原地等待；由於千本鳥居有兩路，還有指標說明請往右走。
There are so many people, you can only be in the long line and take your time. Follow the sign to go the right way for the Senbon Torii.

這次在京都參拜了許多神社，才了解，原來日本的神社有許多種不同的方式，來表彰捐錢最多的信徒，伏見稻荷大社便是為其豎立新鳥居，因此在每一個鳥居上，都會寫明了由誰，在什麼時候捐贈的，感覺，實在有點諷刺，這應該是個頗為市儈的行為，聚集起來之後，卻又很美～

There are many different ways for the shrine to memorize the person, group or a company which donate a lot of money. For Fushimi Inari-taisha, they build the torii for those people. So we can find the date and the name on the torii. It's kind of snobbish, but it looks so beautiful. That's contradictory.

走出千本鳥居，上了一個平台，回頭一看，原來這就是從外看千本鳥居的樣子，真的是密集到看不出中間有人在行走。
The Senbon Torii looking from outside.

在平台的一側，突然發現了一張「新」地圖，範圍卻比前一張大了幾倍，原來，我不過才參觀了五分之一？難怪網路上的資料說這兒有一萬個鳥居！
When walk through the Senbon Torii, there is a new map prompt out. What? I just finish 1/5 of walking if I want to go to top of Mt. Inari? Now I get it why people says there are 10,000 torii here.

當作運動，繼續爬山囉！
Keep going up with more torii.

新池，走到這兒的人就少了，更覺得平和。 
The Shin-ike pond, it's peaceful here.

運氣不錯，就在新池的一條叉路，正好在立新的鳥居。
And I was lucky that the workers are building up a new torii here.

  

印象中，這兒似乎是二之峰，但或許我也沒走到那麼高，這兒的風景已經不錯，只是當時覺得似乎會影響到後續的行程，這兒比我預計地大了許多，因此就原路折返了。另有一件趣事，在路旁看見了另一個小神明，它的使者是兩隻獅子，不知會不會是整個伏見稻荷大社唯二的獅子。
I think I only arrived Ai No Mine or Ni No Mine then went back. An interesting thing is that I found a god here who has two lions as the messenger. 

下面則是一些特別的角落。
Below are some photos I took in Fushimi Inari-taisha.

(伏見稻荷大社裡，還是種了幾棵的楓樹) 

(You may still find several maples here.)

(由於下雨，黏在鳥居上的楓葉)

(A maple on the torii.) 

(或許因為社內有不少叉路，千本鳥居回程路上的人少了許多，成了一個很適合拍照的地點。)

(The back way of Senbon Torii. Much less people here, a good location to take photos.)

伏見稻荷大社地址：
68 Fukakusa Yabunouchichō, Fushimi-ku, Kyōto-shi, Kyōto-fu 612-0882日本

[Japan] 京都，伏見區，祢ざめ家 (Nezameya)

這是一間超有名的餐廳，幾乎只要寫到京都的遊記，都會提到這間鰻魚飯，不過在Google Mpas上的評價也很兩極化，給一顆星的人，大多都是在報怨價錢與服務，尤其是禁帶外食以及每個人都要點餐的規定，聽說執行得非常嚴格，所有外食必須由店家保管，且所有人也含很小的小朋友(或許年齡低到兩三歲)；給五顆星的，基本上都是讚美它的鰻魚飯真的很好吃！
This is a very famous restaurant which sells Unadon (grilled eel over rice). The comments on Google Maps is extremely different. The one-star users complain about the high price and bad service. Especially for the requirements about No food from other places and each person needs to order one dish. The five-star users praise about the good food.

離開光明院，走路到鳥羽街道站，搭乘京阪本線到伏見稻荷站下車，在前往伏見稻荷大社的途中，就聞到街邊飄來一股香味，原來就是祢ざめ家在料理鰻魚的香味，由於才早上十一點左右，用餐的人不多，決定在這兒提早用餐。
I took the Keihan Main Line to the Station Fushimi Inari from Toba kaidō, where I walked from Komyoin. On the way from the station to Fushimi Inari-taisha, I smell the fragrance from the grilled eel. Since it's just around 11 o'clock, there are no much people. I decided to have my lunch here.

看著簡單，舊舊的菜單，決定與大多數的部落客一樣，點一份招牌特餐，日幣2100元。
The menu looks old, and I remembered many people just order the special set combine the udon and unadon. So I ordered it for ¥ 2,100.

等待時，發覺的確是挺簡單的日式風格，只是多了些警語，或許真的有太多人報怨過店家的服務，牆上警語就直接用英文，日文與中文寫著禁帶外食，每人要點一個餐點這兩個最為人詬病的要求；另外，這是一間少見的，會直接讓客人之間併桌的餐廳，前後兩批與我併桌的客人，兩位是韓國人，一位是帶著行李箱的日本輕熟女，或許也是來玩的吧！
It's very Japanese style with some messages from the owner. I guess maybe the owner also knows too many people complain about No food from other places and each person need to order one dish at least, so he highlight these requests in English, Japanese and Mandarin. 
There is another thing that it's kind of unusual in a Japanese restaurant, the waiter/waitress may ask you to sit with with strangers if you're alone or with 2 persons because they only have tables for four people. 

醃蘿蔔絲，在台灣，一般都是醃蘿蔔片配著魯肉飯一起吃，這醃蘿蔔絲還算不錯。
The pickled radish. In Taiwan, we slice it to eat with braised pork on rice. 

鰻魚飯是我目前吃到最好吃的，之前吃過的鰻魚飯，基本上都是醬汁的味道，某種程度上也算是習慣了，沒想到還能吃到這樣保有原味，再加上木炭香的鰻魚，好讚！或許也因此還吃得出鰻魚肉的Q彈，香，Q，超讚！就只可惜，這一碗就這麼一小塊，真的是貴了點吧～
The unadon is so delicious which I never have before. General speaking, the taste of the soy sauce on unadon always covers the flavor of the eel itself. This is the only exception. I can still smell and taste the flavor of the eel, and the eel is still chewy. It's so ~ good. What a pity it only has one small piece.

豆皮烏龍麵，挺不錯的，可惜風采全被鰻魚飯蓋過，實在不記得特點了...總之，若來此用餐，強烈建議選擇鰻魚飯套餐。
As I remember, the Kitsune Udon is good but the unadon is fantastic, I don't have comment on this. Because of that, I recommend people to try the unadon set here.

總結一下，我屬於因為美味的鰻魚飯而給予五顆星評價的人，不過，也或許因為我是獨自一人，且在較早的時間點抵達用餐，因此沒機會體會到它的壞服務。
As a conclusion, I'm one of those who give 5 stars because of the good food. I guess I was there with my own and arrived early, I didn't experience the bad service.

祢ざめ家(Nezameya)地址：
〒612-0807 Kyoto Prefecture, Kyoto, Fushimi Ward, 深草稲荷御前町82-1

[Japan] 京都，東山區，光明院 (Komyoin)

離開東福寺南門之後，沿著小小的指示，就可以來到這間小巧的寺院─光明院。進入主庭院的門票要價日幣300元。
When leave Tofukuji, just follow the signs to a small temple next to Tofukuji, the Komyoin. It will cost ¥ 300 to get in the major garden.

一路上相當地清幽，遠離了東福寺的人潮，靜靜地走在住宅區中，同行的，只有前方一位溜狗人，走著走著，看著他停下來拍攝美麗的楓葉，拍著拍著，原來已經到了光明院。
When leaving Tofukuji and walk on the way to Komyoin, it's so peaceful on the way. Most people visit Tofukuji and then just go to other places. There is only one person walking the dog in front of me. While he stopped to take photos of the beautiful maples, I knew I was there. 

這是一間小而美的寺院，前庭小小的，為了拍攝這幾棵楓樹的楓紅，也花去不少時間。
It's a small temple with the front yard and the garden.

進入主體建築，看著庭院，特別有一種被洗禮的感覺，從剛才幾百人的東福寺，來到這個不足廿人的小庭院，突然就慢了下來，靜靜坐在庭園一角，或許不見得能感受到禪意，但這平和的氛圍，真是舒服～
下面連結可以欣賞到光明院庭園的360度環景：
https://goo.gl/maps/jgfLtBM6ocS2
There were only 20 people or even less, so it's calm. I enjoyed to just sit there and watch. If you're interested in the garden, you may reference to below link for the 360 degree of the garden.
https://goo.gl/maps/jgfLtBM6ocS2

光明院中，其他有趣的小角落。
Some interesting corners in the temple.

賞楓日期：2016年11月19日。
建議賞楓期間：11月中~下旬
Time I visited: November 19th, 2016.
Best time to see: in mid to late November.

光明院地址：
〒605-0981 Kyoto Prefecture, Kyoto, Higashiyama Ward, 本町15−809