在德國的第三天早上,我們來到了藍紹 (Ramsau),為的是幫有名的教堂 (Church of St. Sebastian) 加上阿爾卑斯山景拍張照片。
一早在飯店用完早餐,Check Out 後,搭乘巴士 846 到 Ramsau Kirche 站下車即可,拍完照後,在教堂的對面,沿著河岸往上游走,可經過稱之為魔法森林 (Zauberwald) 的小徑,在綠蔭下悠閒地走了約一個小時,即可抵達辛特湖 (Hintersee)。
On the 3rd day we stayed in Germany, we came to Ramsau for the famous Church of St. Sebastian where you can easily find on the postcards. We took bus 846 from Berchtesgaden station to Ramsau Kirche bus stop. You can find the church is on the other side of the main road. After taking photos, you may go to Hintersee via a fantastic track Zauberwald. It just takes about 1 hour which is good as a half-day trip.
在這個區域的地圖上,貝希特斯加登 (Berchtesgaden) 位在右上角,前一天搭 841 / 842 往南去往國王湖 (Königssee),今天則是搭乘 846 往西走,來到了藍紹。
For those who don't know the directions of this area, Berchtesgaden is on the Northeast corner. We went south from there to Königssee yesterday. Today, we move west to Ramsau.
今天在漂亮的藍天之下,遠方的阿爾卑斯山非常地清楚,搭配白底深藍色頂的教堂,真的是風光明媚,難怪大家至少都在這兒待個二十,三十分鐘,想把這樣的美景好好地拍下來。
With the shining blue sky, the Alps are really clear. Plus the white church, the landscape is wonderful. I totally get why people take a lot of photos here. Everyone wants to get the best shot.
離開前,(馬路的同一側) 在公車站牌到教堂之間,有免費的洗手間,可以先清潔一下。
By the way, before you leave here, you may use the free restroom just outside the church.
過到馬路對面後,先沿著小鎮的巷道往小溪上游走 (也就是往教堂方向),穿過小鎮,進入小徑後,即可在路邊看到指標,記得往辛特湖 (Hintersee) 方向即可,總共大約需要一小時。
Usually, people will cross the road to take photos because they want to take the photo with the church and also the bridge. When you do it, you just go west on the same track along the river. Soon you will find the sign, remember to go to Hintersee. It's an easy walk for about 1 hour.
魔法森林小徑基本上就是沿著 Ramsauer Ache 溪往上游走,沿路不時有些小驚奇,可能是人工造景,也可能是自然美景,甚至不過就是雨天過後剛長出的可愛香菇,或許就是這些小驚喜,才會稱之為魔法森林吧~
On the way, you're walking on the side of Ramsauer Ache. You may find some interesting things all the way, the small puppet, the fantastic landscape, and even the cute mushrooms.
今天的辛特湖美景真的是超棒的,有藍天,又沒有風,湖面倒影清晰又迷人,且環湖步道旁有不少座位可以讓人安靜地坐下來,聊聊天,欣賞這美景,讓人度過悠閒的二三十分鐘,真的是舒服;若想要回貝希特斯加登,推測可以走到湖對岸的旅館區,我們看著公車從那兒往回開,或者像我們一樣,走回魔法森林與辛特湖交界處,那兒也有公車站,可以搭車回貝希特斯加登。
The landscape of Hintersee is fabulous today with the blue sky, calm weather which brings the reflection so wonderful. It's also good there are many chairs along the lake. You can sit down and enjoy the view and the atmosphere with friends.
When you want to back to Berchtesgaden, you can walk to the hotels on the other side of the lake (I saw a bus turns back from there). Or you may wait at where Zauberwald meets Hintersee. I don't remember the name of that bus station, it's just there.
經過聖巴爾多祿茂教堂 (St. Bartholomä) 之後,再搭約 30 分鐘的航程,即可抵達最深處的上湖 (Pier Salet Alm - Upper Lake),也是眾多國王湖美景照的出處。
Leaving the Pier St. Bartholomä and 30 minutes later, we arrived at the Pier Salet Alm - Upper Lake where you may see a lot of photos on the postcards.
下船之後,可以先到旁邊的小屋上個洗手間,免費的喔 (這在歐洲挺少見的)!
When getting off the cruise, you may go to the bathroom first. It's free which is not common in Europe.
沒想到湖對岸居然有棟建築物,不知是不是真的有人住在這風景如畫的好所在。
There is a building on the other side of the lake, it looks so beautiful. I don't know if someone really lives in such a nice place here.
走了幾步,便有餐廳出現在路旁,販售的,應該是這兒有名的煙燻鱒魚,我們因為有自備午餐,就繼續前行了。
Several minutes later, you will find a restaurant that may sell the famous smoked trout. Since we bring the sandwiches as our lunch box, we just go forward.
走沒兩步,就看到路旁的指標,當時還沒有感覺,畢竟都是德文,也還不確定今天會走到哪裡,現在寫文查找相關資料,原來當時走到了 Fischunkelalm 牧場,單程約一個小時,接著再往前到了 Röthbach 瀑布,標示寫著 1.5 小時,也就是到了 Fischunkelalm 牧場後再走 30 分鐘,個人覺得應該不止,30 分鐘只能走到很接近瀑布,但想走到瀑布正下方,由於路況的關係,或許還要再 30 分鐘也說不定。
The sign says it may take one hour to go to the Fischunkelalm and one and a half hours to Röthbach Waterfall. Many bloggers share their experience to go to the Fischunkelalm but I didn't notice there is a waterfall here. Maybe it could be a new place for me which I didn't collect any info before.
或許由於前幾天陰雨綿綿,路旁冒出了許多的野菇。
I guess it's because of the rain in the past few days, there are lots of mushrooms.
很快地,走路不到十分鐘,我們就抵達了最有名的明信片照片,船屋,上湖,以及 Röthbach 瀑布的照片,可惜今天沒有大藍天,雖然如此,藍綠色的湖水,也是很美麗的~
The landscape with the boathouse is the most famous photo of the Obersee Lake. It's a pity that we didn't have a blue sky. Even though, the green water of the lake is shining and attractive.
拍照途中,突然聽到背後有聲響,原來是船屋主人來了,帶著一車的補給,來到船屋,準備運送到對面的 Fischunkelalm 牧場,為何會這麼肯定呢?因為半個多小時後,我在牧場的販賣部又見到了這個老先生~
Maybe we had bad luck with the weather, but we met the host of that boathouse. He took some supplies with him and was going to ship them to the Fischunkelalm. Why I'm so sure about this? Because after half hours, I saw him again at the farm.
步道沿湖而建,綠蔭處處,隨時都想停下來拍照,也隨時都是美景,直到一個大彎口,第一次遇到好幾位西方臉孔的人,架著腳架在拍照片,不知道是不是攝影團,感覺有趣;在這大彎之後,則是一段較為險峻的步道,應該是在岩壁上開鑿出來的,會稍微難走一點。
The track is on the side of the Obersee Lake. You just walk with the wonderful landscape. You may keep seeking spots to take photos. You just can't stop doing that. This is my first time to find a group with photographers, so I also take some photos at the same point. With the green water, it's really beautiful there.
若可以準備的話,穿一雙硬底的鞋子會好走一點。
After that spot, you may need to climb up the track just next to the rock. If you have hard-soled shoes, remember to wear them which may be easier to walk on the track.
走過那一段,很快就可以見到對應的這一側的船屋,接著便是 Fischunkelalm 牧場,這兒有販售一些小點,如起士,火腿一類,最有名的,還是這兒的牛奶,經歷這段旅程,來喝杯冰涼的牛奶,真的是超爽快的!
After that, you'll see the 2nd boathouse on this side of the lake, and then the Fischunkelalm. It sells cheese, hams and the most famous milk. It's cool, fresh, and really wow to me. Just bottom it up!
同時我們也看著這樣的景色,享用我們的午餐;備註一下,這兒也有免費的洗手間,算是挺方便的。
With the wonderful landscape, we enjoyed our lunch with the milk. So nice~
用完午餐,覺得時間還早,就繼續往裡深入,想去看看德國最高的瀑布 ─ Röthbach 瀑布,走了約 25 分鐘,不過走到第二張照片的地方,我覺得在這兒拍照的視角最好,還可以拍環景,不知道指標是不是就計算到這兒,大約 30 分鐘,再往前,就要進入山腳下的森林,然後還要橫越小溪,開始有點要往上溯的感覺,因此我也只是再多走個十五分鐘左右就回頭,準備去國王湖的中間站 ─ 聖巴爾多祿茂教堂看看。
I thought we still have one hour before going back, so we decided to go to the Röthbach Waterfall. It's much far then I expected. After about 25 minutes, we just arrived at the place I took the 2nd photo above. Here is a place to take photos with the good distance of the waterfall. You can take a fantastic panorama. I tried to get closer. Crossed a small river and tried to climb up a half of hill with many fallen trees which already took me 15 minutes, and I guess I may need to spend 20 - 30 minutes more if I really want to get the bottom of the waterfall. So I turned back. I preferred to spend more time at St. Bartholomä.