2017年十二月，我第三度踏上了紐西蘭南島的土地，與一群好同事來紐西蘭騎腳踏車，某些人已經有了好幾次海外騎行的經驗，而我則是第一次，就在我的第二故鄉─紐西蘭進行這項挑戰。
In December, 2017, it's my 3rd time to arrive New Zealand. This time, I came with my colleagues to ride bicycle in the South Island of New Zealand. And this is my first time to ride bicycle oversea, because I love New Zealand so much.
這次的行程如上圖，從基督城開始，到南島中南部的皇后鎮結束，全程大約800公里，不過，真正有騎乘的距離(上圖的紫色定位點之間)大約在500公里左右，沒有騎全程的主要原因有二，一是各景點距離太遠，中間不容易安排住宿點，二是行前南島才發生過大地震，故我們略過了北部的山區，各天的行程如下：
第一天：從基督城往北，自 Waipara 騎到 Hanmer Springs，大家剛開始習慣新車跟紐西蘭的公路，到得太晚，沒機會去泡溫泉。這天算是欣賞田園風光。
第二天：直接搭車通過山區，從西海岸的 Charleston 開始騎車，到 Greymouth，又是個很晚開騎的一天。這天則是欣賞海岸線，好幾位同事認為很像台灣的東海岸線。
第三天：從住宿地 Greymouth 往南開到 Harihari 出發，騎到冰河村 Fox Glacier，這天早上下大雨，冷得不得了，果然是騎在溫帶雨林區，下午騎到Franz Josef 時，就跑去熱水池泡湯了，哈～這天就是雨林了，全身淋得溼透。
第四天：從住宿地 Fox Glacier 往南開到 Davis Flat 開騎，一路爬山爬到 Wanaka。這天賞湖景+山景。
第五天：終於是從住宿的 Wanaka 旅館直接騎到 Queenstown 旅館了。這天就很像是在台灣練車，爬，下滑髮夾彎。
The is the map for this ride. The blue route is the total distance for this trip, but we only ride bicycles between the purple points.
Day 1 is from Waipara to Hanmer Springs, the two purple points on the right (from south to north).
Day 2 is from Charleston (a little bit south of Westport) to Greymouth. On this day, we drive to Westport first which already spent around two and half hours.
Day 3 is from Harihari to Fox Glacier.
Day 4 is from Haast to Wanaka. Actually is from Davis Flat but I can find the place on Google Maps.
Day 5 is from Wanaka to Queenstown.
You can easy to tell that we skip nearly half of the route and we already spend 5 days. If we want to ride every place, at least need 10 days.
在路上，我們也看到幾位如上圖的環島勇士，全身家當都在車上，我想他應該至少要花十天來跑上面的行程吧！
On the way, we found there is at least one rider is doing so, with all of the stuff on his bike.
我們就是相對比較輕鬆的騎行了，有個導遊在前領騎，還有補給車載運行李與補給，大家都是輕裝上陣，車上只要放水與基本補給就夠，相較之下算是輕鬆許多。
Compare to us, we're kind of easy ride, ha. We have the guide in front of us and have a van to carry all the belongs. We only need to take some water and foods for supply.
這樣的方式，有好有壞，我們在出發的前一天，還都先花了時間調校車子，並且花時間熟悉新車，這樣才能掌握車況，接下來的每一天(除了第五天)，我們都要不斷地裝御我們的車子，平約要花兩到三小時，所以其實每天騎乘的時間並不長，五個小時左右吧，或許也因此，騎乘的距離並沒有預想地遠，不過這倒是帶來另一個好處，大家的屁股都不太會痛，哈～
It's good, but also bad. We had to spend time to be familiar with the bicycle and spent a lot of time to load off and load on the bikes almost everyday, two to three hours. To be honest, we don't have that much time to ride on the bicycles. And this is also not a bad thing, your ass may not get hurt that much.
補給車的司機則負責幫我們準備午餐，基本上就是三明治，各種不同的火腿片加上甜椒，大黃瓜等等，五天基本上都一樣，我因為之前曾在澳洲參加過當地的旅遊團，有了心理準備，也算是習慣了，團員中倒是有人覺得沒有米飯補給，實在沒力氣騎車。
The driver also help to prepare our lunch like above, all 5 days. I'm OK with that since I had been to travel with the travel agent in Australia. Some of my colleagues are not used to that, just can't eat sandwich so many times in a week.
整體來說，這次的行程或許距離不到台灣的環島團那麼遠，但也不會輕鬆到哪裡去，前兩次自己開車遊南島時，覺得南島哪有坡？一路油門踩著，時速一百就玩完了，輪到騎車，有不少的上坡，還都挺陡很不好騎，交通工具一變，果然感受就差很多，呵～最經典的就是第四天的 The Neck，還有同事爬上去之後，就說「怎麼像是在騎武嶺？」根本就沒有心理準備，騎起來更是操；更不用說第三天騎在雨林中了，冷得全身發抖，真是艱困的挑戰呀！
General speaking, this is not an easy tour. Although we can ride with the beautiful landscape in New Zealand. There are still a lot of up hills that really tough. On day 4, when someone just climb up to "The Neck", she just said it's like climbing up the Wuling, the highest road in Taiwan which is also a famous record for every rider to challenge. The day 3 is also a really tough day to ride in the rain.
對我來說，這是個不錯的，有挑戰性的旅程，只是，都已經來到了美麗的紐西蘭，實在有點不想走「挑戰性的旅程」，我希望能夠多利用「腳踏車」這個交通工具，去多看些景點，應該要以遊玩優先，而不是騎著腳踏車，去征服各國「有困難度的腳踏車路線」，應該要多安排一些像下面照片中的景點呀！(下圖攝於《胸罩圍籬》)
For me, it's a challenge route that I can achieve. Maybe I'm still a beginner as a rider, I prefer to use the bicycle as a tool to reach more funny places, rather than to accomplish a challenging road. For example, the Bra Fence is an interesting spot to visit. We should visit more.
在雪月花的晚餐有兩個選擇，由於分開在兩個餐廳，基本上對每組旅客來說，其實只能吃到一種，今晚，我們選擇吃花鳥，夏天晚上的鍋物選擇；當我們抵達時，大部分的食物都已在桌上準備好了，就等我們來入口，呵～
There are two options for the dinner, we choose to eat at Hua Niao which serves the hot pot for dinner. When we arrived, most of the dishes are prepared on the table. Some of them will be cooked on the table, some are already ready.
餐前酒，或者是餐前醋，讓人開胃用。
The Aperitif, it's a little bit sour to make you feel hungry.
依Wikipedia上的介紹，上述照片包含了八寸(Hassun，はっすん)與先附(Sakizuke，さきづけ)，先附是左上角的那碗豆腐，是開胃用的小菜，調味輕盈和質感清新，其他則為以季節為主題的菜色，通常為一種壽司與幾道較小份的小菜組合，難怪會有這麼多的菜色，不說嘴巴來不及吃，連眼睛都欣賞不過來。
The appetizers, there are so many which makes me don't know how to start eating. They all look so exquisite. For me, I like the raw fish most.
向付け(Mukōzuke，むこうづけ)，為季節性的生魚片。
The sushi.
蓋物(Futamono，ふたもの)，有蓋食器裝盛的食物，通常為湯，或茶碗蒸。
The chawanmushi.
焼物(Yakimono，やきもの)，季節性的魚類燒烤，今晚應該是烤溪魚，魚肉雖然不多，不過很香甜。
The BBQ fish which is really fresh and sweet, so good.
強餚(Shii-zakana，しい ざかな)，主菜，一般為烤制或煮製的牛肉、禽肉、魚等等，今晚是鰻魚火鍋，還不錯吃。
The hot pot with eel. The eel is really good and I eat a lot tonight.
御飯(Gohan，ごはん)，以米飯為主要食材的菜，今晚直接就是釡飯，不過，我開蓋得太早了，服務生看到時，還跑過來念了一下，可能是覺得可惜了一鍋好飯，我猜是如果再煮久一點，才煮得出好吃的鍋巴，不過個人並不偏好鍋巴，倒是覺得還好，但依此經驗，或許在吃懷石料理時，切記不要自己動手，哪道菜煮好，可以開始享用，都由服務生來告訴你就好，不要自作主張地開吃下一道料理。
The traditional Japanese rice cooked in an iron pot. When the waitress found me opened it, she came immediately and told me, it's too early. I guess she meant too early too have they crispy rice at the bottom. Even though, the rice smells so good and tasty. As an example, don't do anything by yourself except eating the foods that the waitress told you it's ready.
蔬菜天婦羅，雖然似乎不在正統的懷石料理中，我還是挺喜歡的，畢竟蔬菜原汁都被鎖在裡面，好吃。
The vegetable tempura. As usual, the coating is really thin and there are still waters inside the vegetables, it's really zesty.
止椀(Tome-wan，とめ わん)，醬湯，以大醬為主料的湯，會放入豆腐、蔥花，有時候還有海鮮、菌類等等。
The miso soup.
水物(Mizumono，みずもの)，餐後甜點，蜜瓜、葡萄、桃等甜美多汁的傳統高級水果。
The dessert.
說真的，這一餐真的吃得有點拘謹，畢竟不懂日文，也沒有機會學習怎麼吃懷石料理，偏偏店家又一早就把所有東西放上桌，哪道料理該先吃？哪道料理是否已經煮好？都要等服務生來說明，今晚反而是學了比較多的懷石料理禮節，對於食物本身的味道，印象反而很淡了～
Overall, I don't remember that mush details about this meal. I guess that's because it's really hard to eat Kaiseki in Japan. It may be expensive and you may not expect to eat. There are so many things to eat and the flavor is not that strong to get impressed.
隔天的早餐又是滿滿的一桌。
About the breakfast, the foods are full of the table again.
中間有一大鍋，可以用來煮(或說熱)兩人份的粥，或稱之為稀飯，桌上所有的小盤都是配菜，我還特地問了服務生，有沒有享用的順序？她說沒有，全部都是煮好的食物，沒有順序性，看個人偏好，每人旁邊都有個小烤爐，可以加熱小魚一夜干，雖然每樣都不多，吃完還是覺得好豐盛，好飽！
There is a pot on the table so you can cook congee which makes me thinks about Aoniyoshi in Nara where the customer also needs to cook the congee by himself. All the dishes on the table you can eat with congee. There even has an oven for you to heat the fish. It's interesting and good taste.
最後，備註一下懷石料理的菜色：
Finally, add the menu of Kaiseki from Wikipedia:
1. 八寸（Hassun，はっすん）
以季節為主題的菜色，通常為一種壽司與幾道較小份的小菜組合。
2. 先附（Sakizuke，さきづけ）
開胃用的小菜，調味輕盈和質感清新。
3. 向付け（Mukōzuke，むこうづけ）
季節性的生魚片。
4. 炊き合わせ（Takiawase，たきあわせ）
蔬菜、肉、魚、豆腐等食材切小塊悶煮。
5. 蓋物（Futamono，ふたもの）
有蓋食器裝盛的食物，通常為湯，或茶碗蒸。
6. 焼物（Yakimono，やきもの）
季節性的魚類燒烤。
7. 酢餚（Su-zakana，す ざかな）
以醋醃漬的小菜。
8. 冷鉢（Hiyashi-bachi，ひやし ばち）
用冰鎮過的食器來盛放熟食，可有麵條、涼拌時蔬、蝦蟹肉等等。
9. 中豬口（Naka-choko，なか ちょこ）
酸味的湯。
10. 強餚（Shii-zakana，しい ざかな)
主菜，一般為烤制或煮製的牛肉、禽肉、魚等等。
11. 御飯（Gohan，ごはん）
以米飯為主要食材的菜。
12. 香物（Kō no mono，こう の もの）
季節性的醃製蔬菜。
13. 止椀（Tome-wan，とめ わん）
醬湯，以大醬為主料的湯，會放入豆腐、蔥花，有時候還有海鮮、菌類等等。
14. 水物（Mizumono，みずもの）
餐後甜點，蜜瓜、葡萄、桃等甜美多汁的傳統高級水果。
季の湯雪月花：
〒 250-0408神奈川県足柄下郡箱根町強羅1300-34
由於有許多的部落客都介紹到季の湯雪月花這個旅館，當初在安排箱根住宿的時候，這間就一直是選項之一，尤其是這兒提供了貸切風呂以及常常在日本旅遊節目看到的「一泊二食」，實在很想來試試！看其圍牆大門，似乎是間頗有年代的飯店，入內之後，反倒覺得是間挺新穎的旅館，反差還真有點大。
The Setsugetsuka is where we stayed at Hakone because there are many bloggers recommended. The gate looks really old but inside is really fashion.
入內就是挑高，氣派的大廳，建議大家可以像我們這樣早點來此check-in，除了這兒有公共浴池，貸切風呂可以使用外，check-in之後還可以在此挑選個人浴衣，比房間裡，全館都一樣的浴衣更實穿，也更容易有泡湯的fu～
In fact, when we arrived Gōra, we came to here to check-in first. To store the luggage and going out to look around. Since the hotel looks really nice, we came back early to have a chance to use most of the services it provides. There is another benefit if you can check-in earlier, another reason we came back early, you can select the yukata you want to wear. Which should be more comfortable than the one provided inside the room.
雪月花分成前後兩棟主建築，月の庄與花の庄，兩樓之間便是溫泉浴池所在，不過，貸切風呂部分，晚上六點以後，幾乎就排不到位子了，隨時都是滿的，如果搶不到，建議可在第二天的白天再來泡。
There are two main buildings, we stayed at the third floor of the Moon building. The private baths are located between these two buildings. It's kind of hard to have a chance to use it after 6:00 PM. We only used one of the three. There are two options for you, came back to check it really often or came back in the morning on the 2nd day. No one is using it in the morning.
我們的房間在月の庄的313室。
The room 313 is our room which also has private baths.
拖鞋就放在門後，挺節省空間的，這還是我第一次看到這樣的收藏方式。
The sandals are hang on the back of the door, you may wear it to go anywhere inside the hotel.
進門左側是臥室的部分，有兩張大size的單人床，不過都是可移動的，稍微花點力氣就可以變成一張雙人床，軟硬適中，睡得還挺不錯的。
The room is really big with two single beds (queen or king size, I guess). They are movable so you can combine them together.
進門的右側則有個小廚房，有熱水瓶，抹茶包和洗手檯，可以泡茶及做一些簡易的清潔。
The small kitchen so you can boil water or wash your hands here.
在客廳的和室部分，則放了兩個提包，可以讓房客穿著浴衣去泡溫泉時放些隨身物品。
There are two bags to store your belongs if you wear yukata to go to the public or private baths.
再往外就是浴室與小庭院。
Next to the living room is the bathroom and balcony.
浴室的備品很充裕，也有吹風機。
They have all the stuffs, you don't have to prepare by your own unless you prefer to use yours.
淋浴間與浴池，中間有道玻璃門，可以阻隔室外的冷空氣進來，畢竟這兒的海拔有五百多公尺，雖然是夏天，晚上還是帶點寒意。
The shower room and bathtub.
如果真的泡得很熱，可以到庭院裡涼一下，哈～
When you feel hot, you may go to the balcony to cool down.
浴池，兩個水龍頭上寫的日文我看不懂，不過，從網路上得知的資料，房間裡只提供熱水，並不是溫泉，想泡溫泉必須去風呂才行；牆上的告示牌寫著適合入浴的時機，抵達旅館時，黃昏時，早上起床時和工作結束後(其實我看不懂日文，從那少數幾個漢字猜的)，總之，這兩天一夜，泡溫泉的確泡得很爽快。
The sign says when is the best time to soak in the hot springs (I guess), when you arrived, when sunset, when you wake up and after work. The big bathtub is OK for two people to lie down at the same time.
在庭院往外，則有一圈的籬笆隔開外面的視線。
If you concerns, there is a fence around the room, people cannot see through from the outside.
到餐廳用完晚餐之後，可以先到大廳參加旅館方舉辦的小型園遊會，時間從六點半到八點，可以在此玩套圈圈等遊戲，在台灣，這些遊戲可能要去夜市玩，在日本，或許就是花火大會的時候才有機會玩吧！
After dinner, we went to the lobby first. From 6:30 to 8:00 PM, there is a small fun fair for the guests. As a foreigner, I can imagine what a Japanese may do in the summer night.
貸切風呂部分，在晚上我們只有泡到其中的《花霞》，雖然因為燈光太暗，沒有從外面拍照，裡面的空間還不小，牆上有時鐘，可以提醒大家時間，以免泡太久導致身體不舒服。
For the private baths, Hua Xia is the only one we used at night. Because it's dark, I didn't take a photo to show how it looks like from outside. Inside, it has a clock to remind you how long you have taken the bath, in case you don't aware about the time.
有兩個可以放置隨身物品與浴衣的籃子。
The baskets are for you to store the bags and yukata.
也有用五國語言(含日文)說明的泡湯禮儀需知，首先要先洗淨身體才能下去泡，其次則是不要把個人的小毛巾放入溫泉水中，最後則要把身體擦乾再離開。
To remind the visitors, there are 4 languages, if we count Japanese then are 5, to remind you the bathing manners. Washing yourself well before soaking in the tub, don't put your towel in the water and drying yourself before leaving the bathing area.
《花霞》提供了兩個不同溫度的浴池，兩池間好像有三到五度的溫差，就看個人喜愛熱一點，還是涼一點的溫泉水了，幸好牆上都有溫度計可以確認溫度。
This is how the bathtubs look like at night and at day. It's the only one has two bathtubs. As I remembered, the temperature of the two bathtubs are different. You can check the thermometer on the wall.
隔天才有機會來探訪的《觀月》，是個大大的檜木浴池。
The Guan Yue is a big bathtub made by cypress.
《滿天》則是由石頭碶成的浴池；三間的感覺都不同，不過溫泉水是一樣的舒服，建議大家三間都要泡到，很舒服的。
The last one is Man Tian, the bathtub is made by stone.
晚上在泡完《花霞》之後，還覺得有點不過癮，就再跑去泡大眾池，由於已近午夜十一點，幾乎沒有人，讓我一人獨享那寬大的浴池，感覺超級爽的，就可惜，泡完之後，放於浴池外，免費的養樂多與冰棒都沒有了，好像缺了點什麼；就在隔天再泡一次時，多拿了幾瓶，真舒服～
The public bath, since it's public, I didn't take photos. I went there around 11:00 PM. No one is there, I just enjoy all the equipment by my own. It's so comfortable. There are free yakult and popsicle just outside the public bath. It's hard to still left some when it's almost mid-night. But in the morning, there are a lot, ha~
雖然沒有養樂多冰棒了，但這兒有一項絕對稱得上是五星級的服務，從十點半到十一點半，在餐廳有免費的一杯冰啤酒與一碗熱拉麵，吃完只有一個感想，「好爽啊～」
One more thing which makes me feel that the service here is so good, definitely worth for 5-star. There are suppers at night when you finish the bath. From 10:30 to 11:30 PM, you can have one free cup of beer and one free ramen. So good!
在季の湯雪月花的一泊二食，是這趟旅程中，最貴的消費，總價日幣三萬八千元(還是取得一些折扣之後的價格)，從這兒的服務來看，我會說一聲，物有所值！
To stay for one night with two meals, dinner and breakfast, it costs ¥ 38,000. It's the most expensive one during this trip, I can tell you that it's worthy.
季の湯雪月花：
〒 250-0408神奈川県足柄下郡箱根町強羅1300-34
