2018年1月28日 星期日

[Japan] 2016秋季京都賞楓行程安排 (My schedule for visiting Kyoto in 2016 autumn)


在2016年的秋末(十一月底),我安排了十天的旅程前往京都,主要是因為過去曾去過東京三次,想說這次換個地點,同時也利用這個時間去賞楓。
In 2016, I was thinking to go to Kyoto because I had already been to Tokyo for several times. And it's also close to fall which means I can arrange a tour to visit a lot of temples and maples.

這十天的行程如下。
Below is my schedule for this 10-day tour.
耗時 (Spending time)抵達地點 (Arrive)備註 (Remark)
Day 1
3.5小時 (3.5 hrs)大阪關西機場
Kansai International
復興航空 TransAsia GE602, 抵達時間1140 (arriving at 1140)
Stop operation, just for your information
1.5小時 (1.5 hrs)第一航廈二樓JR Office
JR Office @ 2F, Terminal 1
入關 (Check-in)
購買JR ICOCA:未來關西地區的鐵路交通(含捷運)
Buy JR ICOCA for the Metro
購買HARUKA割引券:單程從關西機場->京都
Buy HARUKA for ony way from Kansai International to Kyoto
1.5小時 (1.5 hrs)JR 京都車站 (JR Kyoto)關空特急HARUKA
1小時 (1 hr)伊勢丹(ISETAN)十樓之京都拉麵小路
Kyoto Ramen Koji @ 10F, ISETAN
午餐:拉麵
Ramen for lunch
1小時 (1 hr)二條站 AirB&B
Nijō Station (Kyoto) Air B&B
前往飯店check-in
Go to hotel and check-in
0.5小時 (0.5 hrs)出町柳駅
Demachiyanagi Station
買出町柳至貴船口車票(鞍馬線)
Buy the ticket from Demachiyanagi Station to Kibuneguchi Station (Kurama Line)
0.5小時 (0.5 hrs)貴船口
Kibuneguchi Station
叡山電車楓葉隧道
Maple Tunnel
0.5小時 (0.5 hrs)貴船神社
Kifune Shrine
公車(貴船線) - 15mins, 走路 - 30mins
Recommend to take the bus
0.5小時 (0.5 hrs)貴船神社
Kifune Shrine
賞夜楓
Maples in the night
1小時 (1 hr)出町柳駅
Demachiyanagi Station
搭公車,叡山電車回出町柳駅
Take the bus, Kurama Line back to Demachiyanagi Station
1.5小時(1.5 hrs)千本丸太町
とんかつ 豚ゴリラ (Buta-Gorilla Honten)
晚餐:炸豬排
Dinner
Day 2
2小時(2 hrs)東福寺
Tofukuji Temple
奈良線東福寺站,賞楓
Nara Line (JR West) to the station Tofukuji, maples
1小時 (1 hr)光明院
Komyoin
從東福寺走路10分鐘即可抵達,賞楓
10 mins walk from Tofukuji Temple, maples
1小時 (1 hr)祢ざめ家
Nezameya
搭京阪本線(鳥羽街道)抵達伏見稻荷站,午餐:鰻魚飯
Keihan Main Line to the Station Fushimi Inari for lunch (Unadon)
1.5小時(1.5 hrs)伏見稻荷神社
Fushimi Inari-taisha
賞鳥居
Torri
2小時(2 hrs)清水寺
Kiyomizu-dera
京阪本線(伏見稻荷->清水五條),賞楓
Keihan Main Line to Kiyomizu-Gojō Station, maples
1.5小時(1.5 hrs)高台寺
Kōdai-ji
從清水寺走路10分鐘即可抵達,賞楓
10 mins walk from Kiyomizu-dera, maples
1小時 (1 hr)ひさご Hisago 葫蘆親子丼
Hisago
從高台寺走路5分鐘即可抵達,可能要等待30分鐘以上,晚餐:親子丼
5 mins walk from Kōdai-ji, may need to wait 30 mins, dinner with Oyakodon
1小時 (1 hr)祇園
Gion
逛街
Take a walk
1小時 (1 hr)祇をん う桶や「う」
Gionuokeyau
需要預約,或者必須五點到,看能不能在預約客人抵達前用餐,晚餐:鰻魚飯
Need to make a reservation, or you have to arrived at 5 PM, try to eat before those
customers, dinner with Unadon
Day 3
2小時(2 hrs)北野天滿宮
Kitano Tenmangū
賞楓
Maples
1.5小時(1.5 hrs)鳥岩樓
Toriiwarou
從北野天滿宮走路20分鐘,午餐:親子丼
20 mins walk from Kitano Tenmangū, lunch with Oyakodon
2小時(2 hrs)金閣寺(鹿苑寺)
Rokuonji
從鳥岩樓走路40分鐘,賞楓
40 mins walk from Toriiwarou, maples
2小時(2 hrs)龍安寺
Ryōan-ji
從金閣寺走路30分鐘,賞楓
30 mins walk from Rokuonji, maples
2小時(2 hrs)仁和寺
Ninna-ji
從龍安寺走路15分鐘,賞楓
15 mins walk from Ryōan-ji, maples
2.5小時(2.5 hrs)めん 馬鹿一代拉麵
Menbaka
等不到公車,故花了一小時才回到千本丸太町,再加排隊時間,
大概花了兩小時才吃到晚餐,晚餐-拉麵
The bus I planed to take was closed on weekends, so I spent 1 hour to back to the Nijō Station.
When arrive the restaurant, wait for 1 hour to eat dinner, Ramen.
Day 4
2小時(2 hrs)京都御苑
Kyoto Gyoen National Garden
賞楓
Maples.
1.5小時(1.5 hrs)南禪寺
Nanzen-ji
從京都御苑騎單車30分鐘抵達南禪寺,逛了一小時作為順正豆腐的排隊時間
Ride bike about 30 mins from Kyoto Gyoen National Garden, look around about 1 hour
for the waiting time to eat Kiyomizu Junsei Okabeya
1小時 (1 hr)南禪寺順正豆腐
Kiyomizu Junsei Okabeya
午餐:湯豆腐
Lunch: Tofu
1小時 (1 hr)南禪寺
Nanzen-ji
賞楓
Maples.
1.5小時(1.5 hrs)永觀堂
Eikan-dō Zenrin-ji
從南禪寺走路15分鐘,賞楓
15 mins walk from Nanzen-ji, maples
3小時(3 hrs)銀閣寺
Ginkaku-ji
先在哲學之道(走路+拍照約1小時)散步賞楓,再到銀閣寺賞楓
Take photos of the maples on the Philosopher's Walk (about 1 hour), then go to the Ginkaku-ji
45 mins walk南禪寺
Nanzen-ji
經哲學之道回南禪寺,準備賞夜楓
Back to the Nanzen-ji via the Philosopher's Walk for the maples at night
1小時 (1 hr)永觀堂
Eikan-dō Zenrin-ji
賞夜楓
Maples in the night.
1小時 (1 hr)天授庵
Tenjuan
賞夜楓
Maples in the night.
Day 5
2小時 (2 hrs)三千院
Sanzen-in
從二條站出發,公車時間大約一小時,賞楓
From Nijō Station may need 1 hour by bus.
0.5小時 (0.5 hrs)寶泉院
Hosen-in
賞楓
Maples.
3小時 (3 hrs)琉璃光院
Ruriko-in
從三千院出發,公車時間大約30分鐘,賞楓,由於有控制每一時段的參觀人數,
建議至少規劃三小時
From Sansen-in may need 30 mins by bus.
Because it limits how many people can get in, I recommend to schedule around 3 hours to visit Ruriko-in includes the waiting time.
麵屋極雞
Menya Gokkei
搭地鐵從八瀨比叡山口站來到一乘寺站,準備享用午餐:拉麵,等待1小時。
Take the metro from Yase-Hieizanguchi Station (Ruriko-in) to Ichijōji Station. I plan to have lunch with Ramen. The waiting time is 1 hour.
0.5小時 (0.5 hrs)詩仙堂
Shisen-dō
賞楓
Maples.
2小時 (2 hrs)清水寺
Kiyomizu-dera
從詩仙堂搭公車約50分鐘,賞楓
Take the bus from Shisen-dō is about 50 mins.
1.5小時 (1.5 hrs)高台寺
Kōdai-ji
從清水寺走路10分鐘即可抵達,賞楓
10 mins walk from Kiyomizu-dera, maples
Day 6
2小時 (2 hrs)JR 馬掘駅 -> トロッコ (Torokko) 亀岡站
Torokko
經山陰本線到龜岡(0815到),搭乘嵯峨野小火車,排隊一小時買到1130的站票,
建議七點半以前到,或是網路預約
Take the JR Sanin Main Line to Umahori and walk to Kameoka to transfer to the
Sagano Romantic Train. Wait for 1 hour to buy the ticket.
1小時 (1 hr)桑田神社
Kuwata Shrine
如果要等一小時候的火車,建議可來桑田神社走走
If you need to wait at least one hour for the train, I recommend you come to Kuwata Shrine.
0.5小時 (0.5 hrs)嵯峨野小火車
Sagano Romantic Train
賞楓
Maples.
0.5小時 (0.5 hrs)三忠豆腐
San Chu
午餐:拉麵
Lunch with Ramen.
1小時 (1 hr)常寂光寺
Jojakko-ji
賞楓
Maples.
1小時 (1 hr)嵐山よしむら手打蕎麥麵
Arashiyama Yoshimura
抵達嵐山先到嵐山よしむら手打蕎麥麵排隊預約位子,我十一點半抵達,兩點半才能入座,
午餐-蕎麥麵
When arrived Arashiyama, make a reservation at the Arashiyama Yoshimura. I did it at 11:30 and I need to wait 3 hours to eat here.
1.5小時 (1.5 hrs)天龍寺
Tenryū-ji
賞楓
Maples.
1小時 (1 hr)寶嚴院
Hogonin
賞夜楓
Maples in the night.
0.5小時 (0.5 hrs)嵐山うどん おづる
Ozuru
晚餐:烏龍麵
Dinner with Udon.
Day 7
1小時(1 hrs)東福寺
Tofukuji Temple
奈良線東福寺站,賞楓
Nara Line (JR West) to the station Tofukuji, maples
1小時(1 hrs)西本願寺
Nishi Honganji
奈良線回京都車站,賞銀杏
Nara Line (JR West) to the station Kyoto, ginkgos
1小時(1 hrs)東本願寺
Higashi Honganji
自西願寺走路15分鐘,賞銀杏
Walk 15 mins from Nishi Honganji, ginkgos
45分鐘 (45 mins)京都勝牛 京都駅前
Kyoto Katsugyu
排隊20分鐘
Wait for 20 mins
1.5小時(1.5 hrs)奈良站
Nara
奈良線奈良站,check-in
Nara Line (JR West) to the station Nara, check-in
0.5小時 (0.5 hrs)福興寺
Kohfukuji Temple
參觀
Visit
1.5小時 (1.5 hrs)奈良公園
Nara Park
參觀
Visit
1小時(1 hrs)東大寺
Tōdai-ji
參觀,賞楓
Visit
0.5小時 (0.5 hrs)春日大社
Kasuga-taisha
參觀,賞銀杏
Visit
1小時(1 hrs)志津香釡飯
Shizuka Kamameshi
晚餐:釡飯
Dinner
0.5小時 (0.5 hrs)猿澤池
Sarusawa-ike Pond
參觀
Visit
Day 8
1小時(1 hrs)元喜神雞白湯
Aoniyoshi
午餐:拉麵
Lunch: Ramen
1小時(1 hrs)大阪難波
Namba
2.5小時 (2.5 hrs)梅田空中庭園展望台
Kuchu-Teien Observatory
大阪夜景
The night view of Osaka
1.5小時 (1.5 hrs)瀧見小路之大阪燒
Takimikoji
晚餐:大阪燒
Dinner: Okonomiyaki
Day 9
1小時 (1 hr)黑門市場
Kuromon Market
逛街,早餐
Shopping and breakfast
5小時 (5 hrs)心齋橋 & 道頓堀
Shinsaibashi & Dōtonbori
逛街
Shopping
45分鐘 (45 mins)新世界元祖串炸 - 心齋橋店
Kushikatu Daruma
午餐:炸物
Lunch: fried foods
0.5小時 (0.5 hrs)Luke's Lobster - 心齋橋店
Luke's Lobster
午餐:龍蝦麵包
Lunch: lobster rolls
45分鐘 (45 mins)大起水產 - 道頓堀店
Daiki-Suisan
晚餐:握壽司
Dinner: sushi
Day 10
45分鐘 (45 mins)一蘭拉麵 - 道頓堀店
Ichiran
早餐:拉麵
Breakfast: ramen
1小時 (1 hr)大阪關西機場
Kansai International
一般南海電鐵約45分鐘,特急約35分鐘
Kanku Tokuwari Rapi:t Ticket needs about 35 mins

除了行程安排,這十天跑下來,有幾個提醒事項:
1. 寺廟的參拜費挺貴的,我一開始沒有抓這筆預算,差點就超支了,幸好有朋友請我代買東西,給了我一些他沒用完的日幣;這十天下來,參拜費總共花了日幣15,800元,超過三餐預算的一半了。
2. 賞楓的順序,我建議從貴船神社開始,這兒似乎是京都楓葉最早紅的地方,我去的時候,覺得有點過了。最後則是安排嵐山,其他的地點應該差別不大;這次行程,我覺得最美的楓葉在東福寺,南禪寺與琉璃光院。
3. 這趟旅程是我第一次透過Air B&B預約住宿,我發現它最大的好處是便宜與彈性,比一般旅館便宜就不用特別說了,彈性是指,我基本上都是在出發前一個月在完成預約,在這個時間點,一般旅館全部客滿,畢竟是賞楓旺季,但Air B&B上仍然有許多的好選擇可以挑選,基於此,以後我應該會很常透過Air B&B找房間。
4. 規劃行程時,看過有部落客建議在京都內的景點,可以都用走路的方式移動,經過這次經驗,個人不建議,因為我已經這樣做了,帶來的是,我每天至少走了兩萬步,這個運動量應該不是一般人會有的運動量,呵~
5. 如果天數夠長,建議可在奈良待個兩天一夜,會有更充裕的時間多逛逛奈良。
6. 若想逛街,別忘了保留一天待在大阪的心齋橋,這兒真的很好買。
Besides the schedule, there are several things I would like to share and remind myself for next trip here:
1. The expense for the tickets to visit the temples is not that cheap. Totally cost me ¥ 15,800. It should be an independent item when a visitor is planing for the budget.
2. To enjoy the maples, I recommend you to go to Kifune Shrine first, it's the 1st place that the maples turn to red. And the Arashiyama can be the last place to go. Based on my experience, I may say the best are at Tofukuji Temple, Nanzen-ji and Ruriko-in.
3. This is my first time to try to book my accommodation via Air B&B, it's really cheap and has a lot of choices even it's just one month before my trip. It's really a good choice especially when you missed the time to make a reservation for hotels (may need to reserve the room 3 months before).
4. Although someone mentions that you can visit the attractions in Kyoto by walk, I may say no, don't do it. I did it for you, and according to the Apps I walked more than 20,000 steps everyday. To give you a reference how hard it will be. 
5. If you have time, I strongly recommend you to stay at Nara for two days. 
6. Don't forget to reserve one whole day in Shinsaibashi for shopping. 

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